Project Runway's Tim Gunn, author of the New York Times Bestseller, "Fashion Bible," is a driving force in the fashion space. In his most recent publication, Gunn describes the importance of silhouette, proportion, and fit. According to Gunn, dressing in accordance to these three elements, will undoubtedly lead to success in the dressing department. Particularly when it comes to finding the perfect outfit for a special event, there is an important question every female should be able to answer without hesitation; "Are you a Greek Goddess or an Egyptian Queen?" Personally, I wouldn't mind being either as long as there is a royal connotation associated with my title, however, for exercise purposes, I myself, am an Egyptian Queen. Hopefully, through a discussion of silhouettes, proportion, and fit, including a background on the "Greek Goddess" and the "Egyptian Queen," you too will be able to classify yourself and determine which title is more fitting for you.
Silhouette
Think of a silhouette as the shape, or contour of your apparel. Fashion history has shown that there are three basic categories of silhouettes named; (a) bell-shaped or bouffant, (b) bustle or back fullness, and (c) straight or tubular. As an expansion, there are variations of the straight or tubular group that include; (d) slim, (e) rectangle, (f) wedge, and the ever popular (g) A-line.
Looking throughout history, there are many silhouettes representative of some of the most defining moments in fashion. Almost immediately, when looking at the diagram above, I am reminded of Audrey Hepburn who single-handedly brought the four variations of the (c) straight or tubular category to center stage, by wearing notable dresses, like who can forget the gorgeous black number from "Breakfast At Tiffany's." Many of Audrey's dresses resembled either a (d) slim, (e) rectangle, (f) wedge, or (g) A-line silhouette. Gaining an understanding of silhouettes and how they have transformed throughout history will allow you to enjoy vintage ware and be able to pinpoint the period the fashion the piece is from. Additionally, knowing what silhouettes frame your body the best will allow you to be amore affective and efficient as a shopper.
For centuries, women wore corsets underneath their daily fashions. Over time, the corset loosened until it was finally done away with in its entirety. The loosening of the corset is thought to be tied to the liberation of women, with it at its tightest during Victorian England, and loosest during the 1920s. During the prime of the corset, an extreme version of the (a) bell-shaped or bouffant was considered popular. It was during this time that the shapes of this type of dress were eccentric, with the corset further dramatizing the look. Take for example the pannier (see left), which is the French term for "basket," this style was quite popular during the late 1700s, and required that architecture evolve to fit the wide contour, thus the introduction of "French" doors, which are still popular features in structures today. Fast forward to the 1920s and the world of fashion for women is completely different. At this time, Chanel has introduced the world to the "Jersey" dress (see right). Notably, the "Jersey" dress is much less structured and offers a comfortable "hanging" look, representative of the (e) rectangle silhouette. For women, the greatest strides in contour occurred during periods of war, where women were forced to adapt and join the workforce. Between serving as the head of the household, and simultaneously performing domestic duties, women needed fashions that allowed for free, easy movement, and Chanel's "Jersey" dress was the perfect solution.Proportion
This topic is a challenging one because it is extremely subjective, as much of the discussion is centered around the fact that not every style out there can be worn by everyone. Proportion is a very different conversation from how an outfit fits. Think back to the days of the "mini skirt" and the "micro-mini skirt," clearly aside from the obvious, there were so many things wrong with that style, but for the sake of making a point, this look simply cannot be worn by everyone. On a similar note, "Daisy Dukes" as they are referred to, also cannot be worn by all. But just as extreme short styles can't be worn by all, various longer looks are challenging for some too. Knowing your body and what styles are most flattering on you will keep you balanced and in stride.
For me personally, despite the fact that I am tall with long legs, there are many styles that just don't work. From a silhouette standpoint, my most flattering silhouettes are (d) slim, and (g) A-line. The (e) rectangle drowns me out, with the boxier look making me appear bigger than I am. A successful silhouette for my body type is one that hugs my waist to show my curves and does not drown me out. Typically, the (e) rectangle is ideal for very slim individuals because it will create the appearance of curves, but if you already have curves, the look is simply put, a DISASTER! When it comes to styles that don't work on me, long skirts are simply too much fabric with not enough leg showing. The best styles of skirts for my frame are (g) A-line's that stop either at the knee or just above the knee. I have similar challenges with dresses, where a hem that ends mid-calf simply won't work, even if the silhouette of the dress is an (g) A-line, which I have already determined is a flattering silhouette for my body type. Simply having a dress stop mid-calf makes my legs look stumpy and disproportionate in contrast to my torso.The best advice I can give when it comes to proportion, is know your body. Don't focus on the styles that aren't flattering for you, because who cares, fashion is so dynamic that new concepts are constantly being introduced. Instead, on the positives, particularly the styles that best accentuate your already wonderful features. Remind yourself that just because a fad is a fad does not mean you need to be a part of it if it doesn't work on you. Fads are what they are because almost as soon as they made their entrance, they are on their way out the door. Beyoncé is a prime example of a celebrity who knows how to dress to accentuate her curves, and knows exactly what styles work for her and makes it a point to play up those looks. Beyoncé simply won't wear styles she knows she can't pull off. Trying to force a look that just simply is not right for you is never worth it. The beauty of fashion is it is an art, and there are endless possibilities and variations to be enjoyed!
Fit
Determining your size and the appropriate fit for your clothes is the last piece of the puzzle, once you have determined what silhouettes and proportions are most flattering for your figure. Whenever there is a discussion of fit as it relates to fashion, we all want to run for the hills and just avoid the topic in its entirety because particularly for women, a discussion on fit or size is like being asked how much you weigh. In the fashion space, sizes and how those sizes fit are as inconsistent as the weatherman at predicting the severity of a winter storm. A size six in one designer might fit like a size four in another designer or even a size eight at another. With society's overbearing pressure to remain thin and shoot to be as tiny as possible, it is no wonder women struggle with fit and making sure we are wearing the correct sizes. I often wonder if the numerical sizes and the XS, S, M, L, and XL were replaced with a more neutralizing system like symbols or shapes, if women would feel more confident when shopping and more apt to purchase the correct size. Think about it, if I were to say I am a size "heart," for example, and my friend were to say she is a "square," it is a lot more work from a psychological standpoint to relatively compare each other's sizes. If anything when you would hear about a size based off of shapes, you would just say ok great, and move on. The shapes would take away the instantaneous ranking that occurs when we are looking at the size of clothes when shopping. Once the clothes are on and we are going about our day, who cares, no one is wondering what size you are, at that point people are just thinking about how great you look!
The best way to combat the temptation to purchase the wrong size, is to go shopping with a friend that you know you can trust to be honest (in the nicest way) about how you look in the outfits you try on. For me, my mom is my go to when it comes to shopping because she is always spot on and is not afraid to tell it like it is. While it stinks when I thought an outfit would work and she has to bring me back to reality, the moments when she likes something I've tried on is priceless. Not only will my mom provide endless complements (talk about an ego boost), but she will retell how amazing an outfit was to family and friends for days. What is also amazing about my mom is she will never let me make a mediocre purchase which is great because really you only want amazing options in your closet. Don't you hate when you flip through your closet and you remark how you have nothing to wear? Stop making mediocre purchases and you won't have that problem!
What makes a Greek Goddess?
A Greek Goddess, or Helen, as it is referred to by Tim Gunn, is inspired by the ancient Greek and Roman times. It is a style of dress that is best described by the attributes; Goddess-like flowy, hippie, wrap, and free. Those that are Greek Goddesses typically prefer dresses that have a natural flow to them, and might wrap around the body. with either a belt or sash holding the ensemble together. Tim Gunn's refererence to "Helen" is because in 1200 BC, Helen was considered the most beautiful woman of her time in Greece, and men were constantly fighting for her love. In Greek mythology, while Helen was married to the King of Sparta, Aphrodite, the goddess of love, promised Helen to the Prince of Troy. Helen and the Prince of Troy ran off together which spawned the beginning of the Trojan Wars. The origination of this look alone shows
how powerful and seducing it can be when worn correctly.
Typically, as Tim Gunn describes, those that are Greek Goddesses (Helens), prefer the "draped" look, and have the best luck with silohouettes from ancient Greece, the French Revolution, as well as American vintage from the 1920s and 1960s.
Examples of current Greek Goddesses are Jennifer Lopez, Lupita Nyong'o, and Hannah Simone.
What makes an Egyptian Queen?
An Egyptian Queen, or Cleopatra, as Tim Gunn refers to it, is representative of a more form-fitting dress that can be characterized as sewn, structured, fitted, cinched, and corseted. Those that are Egyptian Queens typically prefer dresses that have a more defining structure which hugs their frame. Similarly to Jennifer Lawrence's look for the 2014 Academy Awards, her dress has a corseted-style top, and structure continuing throughout, which compared to the Greek Goddess style, is the complete opposite. Tim Gunn refers to the Egyptian Queen style of dress as Cleopatra because during her rule, epitomized seduction and structure. In 51 BC, seventeen year old Cleopatra began her reign as the queen of Egypt. With the threat of Rome assuming control of her empire, Cleopatra resorted to using her beauty and power to negotiate with both Julius Caesar and Mark Anthony, along with the aid of a form-fitting and tailored wardrobe.
Egyptian Queen style dresses, as was previously described, are more defined structurally and tailored to accentuate the curves natural curves of the body. Generally speaking, shoppers can have success shopping for this particular style at all price points. From both a fabric and textile perspective, the quality and sustainability of materials used are relatively standard, particularly in the Ready-to-Wear (RTW) lines. I personally have dresses of this type in my closet from a variety of retail stores including; Century 21, Express, Forever 21, H&M, Nordstrom, The Limited, and beyond.
Typically, as Tim Gunn describes, those that are Egyptian Queens (Cleopatra), prefer a much more structured look, and have the best luck with silhouettes from ancient Egypt, the French royal court, and America in the 1940s, 1950s, and 1970s.
So now it is time for you to decide for yourself. Are you a Greek Goddess or an Egyptian Queen?
Bibliography:
The Dynamics Of Fashion. (2008). New York: Fairchild Books, A Division Of Conde Nast
Publications.
Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: The Fascinating History Of Everything In Your Closet. (2012).
New York: Gallery Books, A Division Of Simon & Schuster, Inc.
Please feel free to reach out with any comments or questions by emailing me at: 50shadesofpinkandglitter@gmail.com.
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